Set deep in the heart of the Sierra Tramuntana mountain range on the rugged west
coast of Mallorca, the small romantic mountain village of
Deia,
is situated approximately 36km, or 22 miles, north west of the capital
Palma,
and the
Son Sant Joan International Airport.
Although a popular destination which features as part of many of the larger tour
operators "Scenic West" type island tours, it is quite surprising that very few
visitors to Mallorca would however even consider Deia, and the surrounding area,
as a holiday destination.
Although at this point it has to be said that Deia is particularly unsuitable
for those with mobility problems. The streets here are very narrow and very
steep, and certainly no concessions or consideration is given to those visitors
with limited mobility.
As a result, most of the visitors here do therefore tend to be middle aged
couples who are attracted by the cultural heritage of the village, and chose
Deia as a convenient base from which to escape into the Sierra de Tramuntana
mountains along the network of footpaths and tracks that cover this part of the
island.
It is easy to fall in love with Deia; even the journey there is beautiful, along
the serpentine stretches of the winding Ma-10 road, and what greets visitors is
a taste of old Mallorca.
Deia is surrounded by narrow terraces that have for centuries been cultivated
with olive and citrus trees, these and the old village church standing proud
over the stone houses, will be a familiar and comforting sight for anyone
returning here.
The skyline above the village is dominated by the imposing the mountain Teix,
which is pronounced locally as "tesh", and at 1,062 metres above sea level is
the second highest mountain on Mallorca. For those interested in statistics, the
highest mountain on the island is the impressive "Puig Mayor", overlooking the
nearby village of
Soller,
at 1,445 metres above sea level.
As with the other destinations on this site, a detailed version of the route
from Palma, complete with links to maps where appropriate, is available from the
Route Map
link on the left hand frame of this page.
Many of the travel guides written about Deia will often describe the village as
being "small and exclusive", but perhaps many don’t actually realise just how
small it really is. Figures published by the Consell de Mallorca, taken as part
of the most recent island census, shows a resident population of the 15km2 that
make up the municipality, of just 840 people, and little has really changed over
the past years to increase this figure. In fact if we are honest, little has
really changed in the village for the past 150 years!
The village has a long history, and a settlement on this site can be traced back
to pre-historic times, although a recognisable village only began to properly
take shape under the Moorish rule of the island between the 10th and 12th
Century. Deia has a special place in Majorcan history as in 1582, the nearby
coastal area of Sa Foradada was the site of a bloody battle when 50 brave and
determined islanders defeated an invasion force of 150 North African Moors.
This famous victory has now become part of local legend, and is remembered on
the 13th of May each year with a re-enactment of the great battle between the
Moors and Christians. As a consequence of the battle, and other maritime
attacks, a series of fortified watchtowers were built along Majorca’s west
coast, the remains of which are still visible today.
The first tourists to the area began to arrive in the late 19th Century, even in
those days attracted by the prospect of peace, solitude and outstanding scenery
that the region offered. One of the first of these visitors was the Archduke
Luis Salvador of Austria, who was responsible for the construction of many of
the impressive manor houses in the area.
Over the last hundred years or so, the little village has a built a reputation
for is its literary and musical connections and inhabitants, both past and
present. Its idyllic landscapes of orange and olive groves perched on steep
cliffs served as a refuge for German, English and American artistes after the
First World War and over the past century, the village has welcomed a number of
celebrity guests.
Eminent amongst these is the English poet and novelist Robert Graves, who first
bought property there in 1932 with his mistress Laura Riding. He subsequently
returned in 1946 with his second wife Beryl Hodge and used the town as the
setting for many of his stories, including the historical novel "Hercules my
Shipmate". He is buried in the parish churchyard, where his headstone simply
reads: Robert Graves, Poeta, 1895 - 1985.
The famous erotic writer Anais Nin also visited the village in the 1920's, and
wrote a short story set on the village's beach, whilst the Costa Rican novelist
Carmen Naranjo has also visited and written about the village.
In recent decades, the stars of rock and roll have eclipsed the stars of
literature. Virgin owner Richard Branson has a luxury residence in the town and
his record label's stars have often visited the village, sometimes playing at
one of the local bars, "Sa Fonda". Mick Jagger, Mark Knopfler and European music
icon Mike Oldfield could all be found there at various times during the late
1980's. Branson has also contributed by refurbishing the stately houses of Son
Moragues and Son Canal to create the best known hotel in the area, the very
exclusive La Residencia.
Perhaps the most famous current residents of the municipality are the actor
Michael Douglas and his wife Catherine Zeta Jones, who are often known to visit
their fabulous villa in the village during the summer months.
It is perhaps not surprising that Deia, despite being one of the smallest and
most remote municipalities on the island, is widely regarded as being the
cultural centre of Majorca. Instead of the nightclubs and karaoke bars so
popular in the southern resorts, it is the museums, art galleries and literary
and musical heritage that attract visitors to Deia.
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